Frequently Asked Questions
Please find a Questions here. It may answer your questions.
Q.
Do the shade cards and colour labels accurately represent the colour I will get on my joinery?
The shade cards and colour labels are only a general guide to the shade which will be achieved. The following factors all affect the final colour:
* The natural colour of the wood, and any existing coating,
* The texture and absorption of the surface,
* The way the products are applied.
* The natural colour of the wood, and any existing coating,
* The texture and absorption of the surface,
* The way the products are applied.
Q.
I don't want to colour the wood, I just want to protect it from the weather. What should I use?
Using a coating with no colour and expecting it to work well is like using sunglasses with no shading. In order to protect timber from the effects of sunlight (and ultra violet light in particular), it is necessary to reduce the amount of light reaching the surface.
Q.
My windows are now very dark. I like the wood stain finish, but would like a lighter shade.
In order to highlight the natural features of timber, wood stains are translucent (i.e. semi-transparent). The final shade achieved is a combination of the colour of the surface to which they are applied, and their own pigmentation. A light coloured wood stain onto a dark surface will therefore always allow the dark colour to be seen, and thus the finish remains dark.
To achieve a lighter shade requires either stripping of the existing finish and re-coating, or the application of an opaque, paint-like coating like Sadolin Superdec.
Q.
Do I need to use a timber preservative before I stain my wood?
Many hardwoods (e.g. oak, teak and iroko) are naturally durable and have their own resistance to rot and decay. Most softwoods and "cheaper" hardwoods are not durable and must be treated with a preservative if they are to be used outside. Some of these timbers are treated in the factory to stop them rotting, but if this is not done, a preservative pre-treatment must be used
Q.
I have used another woodstain in the past, can I now use Sadolin to redecorate?
Trapped moisture can lead to blistering if the wood surface was insufficiently dry when the coating was applied. Excessive resin bleed can also blister coatings. This is especially common with dark coatings on south facing resinous timbers.
Q.
How much woodstain will I need to treat my windows and doors?
Providing the surface is sound, there will be no problems in applying these woodstains. Any peeling or flaking areas must be removed, and any bare timber thoroughly sanded back to clean, bright wood. Bare areas should be patch primed with a basestain such as Sadolin Classic to even up the colour, and then one or two coats of Sadolin Extra can be applied.
Q.
In warm, dry conditions, Sadolin Extra is touch dry within a couple of hours. Can I apply another coat the same day?
No. There are 2 stages of the drying first is the dehydrate of the Tinner which take arround 4 hrs.
The second stage is "oxidative curing" which will take around 12 hrs.
We should wait at least 12 hrs to make sure that it is ready for us to apply another coat.
